64 views · 6 replies ( Last reply by DeanB )
Luckily, there was very little collateral damage but it could have been horrible. The bolt was the one that holds the toe link to the hub carrier. It was supplied with a supposedly uprated toe link kit, which has a rose joint instead of a ball joint.
I only bought the kit and had it fitted last January, and it has probably only done 1500 miles, give or take, with two and a bit track days (it has toyo 888s and Nitrons so grips a fair bit more than standard).
So I rang the suppliers who said they have had this problem before on perhaps two kits a year, and their analysis of the snapped bolts suggested they had been over - torqued.
I thought two failures a year sounds like a worryingly high number.
I don't think the bolt was over torqued.
So I rang Mike Flounders my old mate from Tollbar Racing for his opinion. His first question was what strength are the bolts? I told him 8.8 as the suppliers of the kit say they are the optimum, and that higher tensile bolts are too brittle. Mike was adamant this was nonsense and said he would not consider it safe to use anything other than 12.9 strength. He did say the higher tensile bolts are more brittle but they are nevertheless still a lot stronger in this application.
Incidentally Jody told me he has seen a lot of failures with bzp (bright zinc plated) bolts (which these were) and he wonders if the plating process can damage them.
I have decided to get some black 12.9s and replace the inner and outer bolts on both sides given that Mike has built countless racing cars and knows his stuff.
I was wondering though what mloc thought of the whole thing?
What bolts are other people using?
Thanks in advance guys
116 views · 4 replies ( Last reply by richbk )
It takes a long time for any water temp to even appeae on the dash. It doesn't get up to temp and stay there either. Temp drops, if i am driving a steady 60mph say the temp can go off the dash again.
I thought it could be the stat is stuck open, that is why it takes so long to warm up?
It is anoying as i could be on a long drive, then want to put my foot down and "go on cam". The car won't do it then as it says it is cold even though i have been driving a while.
When i first had the car it warmed up a lot quicker and held a higher temp, can't remember the exact figure now. But for arguments sake it would reach 87'c and then stay there.
Any help very much appreciated. Thanks James
229 views · 5 replies ( Last reply by rocketian )
Firstly, it's soooo faaaaab to be here with all my fellow lotus fans...it took me a whopping 14years to get my baby..and it's my dream car!!
Okay a little question please ladies and gents!!
Now I've been reading about this problem which I'm aware is quite common!! Back early in January we had quite a severe frost and I noticed on my drivers door that the paint work had blistered and then flaked off!! Now the undercoat and door are totally unaffected!!
Now as a former vx220 owner, I'm aware that moisture builds in the fibreglass, expands from the cold and then causes the bubbling of the paint!!
Since this problem I did touch up with some touch up paint but it looks not quite as good as it should!! These areas are very small, but here's the thing..Ive been emailing and contacting some body shops and these mobile car body repair firms and they either huff and puff and say the whole door needs doing, quoting ridiculous amounts of money, or sating that they can't help in any way!!
I soooo really am getting frustrated here guys!! I just need the areas affected, repaired...not the whole door as this seems over the top for just such small areas that need repaired!! I live in surrey and I would be so so so grateful if someone here knows of anywhere that can help or guide me to the right places!! I know it's going to cost...but I just don't think its viable to pay silly sums of money when I just need very small areas to be repaired!! I have an Elise s2 02 reg. massive thanks you guys it's really appreciated!!!!
195 views · 3 replies ( Last reply by John FISH Curtis )
Brand new to the forum and looking for a bit of help with my Lotus Elan se that I have recently bought.
The main issues are the seals around the windows. These are pretty worn and when it rains the water kind of pours in.. The roof itself needs waterproofing but I have read a few posts on here that reccommend Autoglym? So I'll be grabbing a bottle or two of that ASAP.
The car did come with a few spare seals for directly over the passenger and driver windows but none that go down the windscreen struts or the rear of the windows. I replaced the ones I had, however it is very difficult to get a perfect fit and a nice seal around to prevent any leakage. Does anyone know anything I can do myself to sort this or know of anyone in the Yorkshire/North area that could do it for me for a relatively reasonable price?
Its the first Lotus I've owned so I'm a bit new to tinkering with them so I'm grateful for all the help I can get! Looking forward to becoming a member of the community!
243 views · 3 replies ( Last reply by retroboltsuk )
I have blue seats...and blue door cards, but my steering wheel centre is grey (and a little scruffy). Any suggestions on the best place for a refurb?
Also, on a similar note, what are people doing about the centre console around the handbrake? Again, looking a little tired. I'm not sure whether to wrap it, paint it or replace it?
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